Editors Note:- This was originally published to celebrate the Centenary of the
Walberton Parish Council in 1994 as one
article without illustrations in a booklet "The Parish of Walberton".
As it provides a very interesting survey of The Street, The Walberton History Group have
taken photographs of the buildings as they are today (late 2002) and made the article suitable for
inclusion in the Walberton Web Site. Our thanks to John Eyre for permission to use his article.
The year 1894 was a revolutionary one in Walberton for two reasons. First, in common with all the other parishes in Britain, it gained its first step towards democracy, thanks to the Local Government Act. Not only was the hierarchical pattern of administration swept away at a stroke (with even women householders now able to vote in parish elections), but the landowners ceased to be local Governors, and the Squire became just a squire.
Secondly, in Walberton, a new building pattern was all but completed as the Booker buildings transformed the south side of The Street. Not until the Council building programme after the Second World War was such a 'New Look' to appear again. The realignment of the east end of the Street by the Maple Road cut-through gave us a comparable mutation but the essence of the village, a remarkable survival of the linear type, was not impaired.
This article takes us on an imaginary stroll through the centre of the village in 1894. Many of the buildings are still with us. Those pictured are named in italics and listed buildings are underlined.
Starting our walk from the Green, at the west end of The Street, one could see to the north the home of Charles Ayling, schoolmaster, journalist, poet and photographer. He died in the year 1894 and the house (pictured left) still bears his name. To its immediate east would have been the long plain Georgian house which still stands, though now deserted, and a house of similar design which was one of the two village smithies and has long since disappeared. Beech Cottage garden occupies its site.
Then, on the corner, was Ivy Cottage , pictured right,
which still stands, and at the north end of Mill Lane the sweeps of the great tower corn mill
would have been confidently rotating. To the south of the Green, obliquely to the road, stood
one of the larger buildings, the old Poor House, then still accommodating some aged widows, though
its main role had long been superseded by the Union at Westhampnett. The present Roseland appears
to occupy part of the site.
Near to this we would have seen the cottages of Burch Row,
dominated by th esplendid timber-framed and thatched structure lived in by George Burch,
his wife and four children.
This is now intriguingly called
Friars Oak and Friars
Oak Cottage (left).
As we set off, avoiding horse and cattle dung, and walk eastward along the Street,
surfaced with soil and stone just like Mill Lane today, the first two buildings to our
left would be familiar to us -Yew Tree and Fir Tree cottages; and then would follow the
refreshing openness of two large fields and part of a meadow. Immediately after this we
would reach a brand new house, Elm Cottage, built in 1892 by John Humphrey to put an end
to living over the shop. Adjacent to this cottage there was the old Kennels Cottage and
then the rest of the group, dominated by Humphrey's hugely expanded business under its
triple-eaved roofs, at once Grocer, Draper and Butcher, in a position which might seem to
us surprisingly un-central. These are now Bay Tree Cottages.
Meanwhile on our right hand we would have seen only one building since leaving the
Green - Barrack Row. This had been called so only once, in the 1871 Census, and was
divided into six dwellings for agricultural labourers and their families. It was thatched
at that time, and the name in fact probably has no military significance. It was quite
often used in the countryside to describe a terrace of workers' houses.
To the east of these cottages was one large field followed by the
Pound where
stray cattle, sheep, pigs and goats were impounded.
Immediately adjacent to this was the only surviving in-village farm, owned at that time
by Thomas Ewens. Most other similar farms had by then been moved out into their
consolidated field holdings. Although this farm has now totally disappeared, it is still
commemorated by the house name Barn Ends.
Across the Street (to the north and next to the shop) was then, as now, Pear Tree
Cottage, which was three dwellings; but the shape, and the pretty well in front of it,
would have been familiar to us. The well serves to remind us of crucial things. For
instance, there was no piped water in the village until 1910. This installation would
probably have been followed by the metalling of the Street, though the modern amenity of
piped gas was due to arrive shortly after our imaginary stroll (in 1901).
We have now reached Tye Lane (its name means road to the Common) and from here another field bordered the road eastward as far as the Village School.
Sources for this article include: 1891 Census - Walberton; Ordnance Survey Map, Walberton, 1876, 25" to a mile; 'Unknown to history and fame,' by Brenda Dixon; Kelly's Directory 1887, 1895, 1902, sundry deeds and wills.
Text by John Eyre, with minor amendments
Photography by Roger Putnam
Page prepared by Mike Roddham
Edited by Martin Bond
Last updated:- 26th May 2003